Hetsika
Professional

Hetsika

Made with Millot 74% - Pure Millot Plantation

An original recipe by Baptiste Sirand, pastry chef instructor at L’École Valrhona

8 steps

Our work to drive forward a collective movement that unites the gastronomy world also entails inspiring customers and dreaming up pastry-making’s future together. With this in mind, Valrhona has come up with a recipe inspired by B Corp’s philosophy. From the choice of ingredients to the various stages involved in creating this dessert, nothing was left to chance by Baptiste Sirand, a pastry chef and instructor at L’École Valrhona who, along with Jérémy Aspa, won the 2022 Meilleur Pâtissier: Les Professionnels television show.

Carefully selected quality ingredients are the basis for this dessert. Millot 74% Single Origin organic-certified chocolate comes from the Millot plantation, all of whose crops have been purchased by Valrhona for more than 30 years. According to studies carried out by Valrhona and the NGO Nitidae, cocoa from Millot has a carbon footprint of 0.57kg of CO2 per kilo of cocoa (measured from the producer’s plantation to the Valrhona chocolate factory), compared with an average of 23kg CO2 per kilo for all cocoa. Other ingredients include organic-certified Madagascan vanilla from Norohy, Burgundian blackcurrant purée from Adamance, and organic-certified French sugar. In addition to this, chef Baptiste Sirand used French honey from Manufacture du Miel, an ethical maker that actively supports the Observatoire Français d’Apidologie and its efforts to protect bees. Carefully chosen low-carbon hazelnuts (0.52kg of CO2eq/kg) round off the recipe. 

“Reasonable Indulgence” principles have been applied to the recipe to make sure our pastries are not just consistently indulgent, but ethical too. This concept was invented by Valrhona’s exploratory pastry chef Frédéric Bau and detailed in his book of the same name published in 2020 by Editions La Martinière. “Reasonable Indulgence” asks us to rethink pastry-making’s rules to make it better for people and the planet, without compromising on taste. Using vegetable fats such as hazelnut oil, for example, has a dual advantage. They are good for your health (containing only 6% saturated fatty acids on average, compared with 55-60% for butter), but they also have a more intense flavor - which is why vegan ingredients are no longer just for 100% vegan pastries and can be used every day of the week. A reduced sugar count and some new Essentials recipes are other important final parts of the picture.

Because forward-looking pastry-making is also more energy-efficient, this recipe doesn’t require the use of a freezer and the baking process has been thought through particularly carefully. Only 0.199 KwH of energy went into making this dessert (for 8 minutes of cooking at 355°F or 180°C), whereas low-temperature cooking would have required 0.495 KwH (30 minutes at 250°F or 120°C), and steaming 1.917 kwH (15 minutes at 230°F or 110°C).

The recipe has been thought through to the last detail. Fleur de sel has been chosen over fine salt because it is richer in magnesium, calcium, and potassium.
 

Recipe Step by Step

Step01

PLANT-BASED LIQUID STARCH FOR “MILLOT 74% VEGAN CRÉMEUX”

Makes 48 6cm mini gâteaux 

  • 600 g Oat drink
  • 60 g Glucose DE60
  • 20 g Cornstarch
  • 680 g Total weight
Heat the oat drink with the glucose syrup.
At 75°F (25°C), add the corn starch and cook to 200°F (95°C).
Step02

MILLOT 74% VEGAN CRÉMEUX

  • 650 g Plant-based liquid starch 
  • 350 g MILLOT 74%
  • 1000 g Total weight
Once the liquid starch is made, slowly combine the warm mixture with the melted chocolate to make an emulsion using a spatula.
Immediately mix using an immersion blender to create a perfect emulsion. Leave to set in the refrigerator.
Step03

HAZELNUT PRALINÉ WHIPPED GANACHE

  • 4 g Water for the gelatin
  • 290 g Hazelnut drink 
  • 12 g Potato starch
  • 170 g 66% nutty hazelnut praliné 
  • 20 g Gelatin powder 220 Bloom
  • 70 g Pure Piedmont hazelnut paste (PGI, medium) 
  • 40 g Cocoa butter
  • 150 g Whipping cream 
  • 756 g Total weight
Mix together a small portion of the cold hazelnut milk with the potato starch.
Heat the rest of the liquid to between 185°F (85°C) and 195°F (90°C).
Combine some of the hot milk with the hazelnut milk and starch mixture.
Put everything back in the pan and bring to a boil.
Add the bloomed gelatin.
Emulsify the hot liquid with the praliné, hazelnut paste, and melted cocoa butter.
Add the cold whipping cream.
Set aside at 60°F (4°C) for 24 hours.
Step04

VEGAN HAZELNUT SHORTBREAD CRUST

  • 50 g Cocoa butter
  • 240 g Pure Piedmont hazelnut paste (PGI, medium) 
  • 135 g Confectioners’ sugar
  • 275 g All-purpose flour
  • 80 g Piedmont hazelnut flour (PGI)
  • 3 g Fine salt
  • 8 g Baking powder
  • 95 g Hazelnut drink 
  • 886 g Total weight
Mix the melted cocoa butter with the pure hazelnut paste.
Mix into the sifted dry ingredients.
Finish by mixing in the warm hazelnut drink. As soon as you have a smooth dough, stop mixing.
Immediately spread between two sheets of paper to a thickness of 2.5mm.
Set aside in the refrigerator or bake immediately for 14 minutes at 355°F (180°C).
Step05

FRUITY BLACK CURRANT & IOTA CONFIT

  • 65 g Sugar
  • 5,5 g Pro-Pannacotta Iota
  • 345 g 100% Blackdown and Andorine black currant purée
  • 345 g Fresh black currant
  • 760,5 g Total weight
Mix the sugar and Iota, then sift the mixture onto the black currant and black currant purée mix cooled to 40°F (4°C).
Mix with an immersion blender until homogenous, then heat to 185°F (85°C), stirring all the while.
Use immediately.
Step06

SOFT HAZELNUT SPONGE

  • 515 g Piedmont hazelnut flour (PGI)
  • 50 g Cornstarch
  • 5 g Baking powder
  • 10 g Norohy Madagascan organic vanilla paste   
  • 105 g Hazelnut oil 
  • 370 g Eggs 
  • 260 g Hazelnut drink
  • 285 g Cru de Bourgogne Honey
  • 1600 g Total weight
Mix together the hazelnut flour, cornstarch, baking powder, and vanilla paste.
Add the oil, eggs, hazelnut drink, and honey, mix them all together, and bake immediately for 8/10 minutes at 355°F (180°C).
Step07

HAZELNUT & MILLOT 74% CRISP

  • 195 g MILLOT 74%
  • 45 g Cocoa butter
  • 105 g 50% crunchy nutty praliné
  • 4 g Fleur de sel
  • 5 g Norohy Organic Madagascan Vanilla Powder
  • 145 g Crispy wheat flake cereal
  • 430 g Hazelnut plant-based shortbread crust
  • 70 g Madagascan cocoa nibs
  • 999 g Total weight
Melt the couverture chocolate and cocoa butter, then add the praliné, followed by the other ingredients.
Mix together.
Step08

MILLOT 74% SPRAY MIX

  • 180 g Cocoa butter
  • 420 g MILLOT 74%
  • 600 g Total weight
Melt all the ingredients together then spray at a temperature of 105/115°F (40/45°C).

Assembly and finishing

Hetsika
  • To taste MILLOT 74%
  • To taste Madagascan cocoa nibs

Make the crémeux, whipped ganache, shortcrust pastry, and confit. 
Make the sponge batter and pour 1650g into a 40 x 60cm frame on a silicone mat and a perforated baking sheet.
Bake at 355°F (180°C) for 8/10 minutes. Place the hazelnut shortbread crust in the oven at the same time and bake for 14 minutes.
Leave the sponge to cool, then cut it into 5cm circles. Store at 40°F (4°C).
Line some 6cm rings (depth: 2cm) with acetate.
To make the crisp, place 13g in each ring and use a spoon to spread it to the edges. Use a 4cm cutter to make the crisp a little thinner. Leave it to set for a few minutes at 40°F (4°C). Turn the rings over so that the crisp has a very smooth surface and add a further 5g, spreading it onto the base. Leave to set at 40°F (4°C).
Use a piping bag fitted with a 9mm nozzle to pipe on 5g of crémeux. 
Add the sponge. 
Add 15g of black currant confit. 
Place 15g of crémeux around the edges of the dessert. Store at 40°F (4°C).
Make the spray mix and turn out the petits gâteaux. Use a spray gun to apply a light velvety layer of mix. 
Beat the hazelnut whipped ganache and, using a pastry bag fitted with a 14mm nozzle, pipe 15g into the center of the dessert.
Make some dabs of tempered couverture on a strip of guitar paper, then flatten them with a flat utensil, pulling it off in such a way that a suction effect is created. Place on an upside-down large U-shaped yule log mold (ref. 33978). Leave to set.
Place a few nibs between the crémeux and the whipped ganache. 
Use a slightly heated metal straw to create a texture on every other dab of crémeux (see photo).
Finish off by placing the chocolate decoration on top.
 

Meet the Chef

valrhona.com-portraits-chefs-baptiste-sirand
Pastry Chef Trainer at Tain l’Hermitage

Baptiste Sirand

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